New home build… pre-wiring advice needed

Seeking Advice
1

Hi all,

I’m getting a new home built, but it’s not fully custom, so I can’t bring in my own contractors. The builder’s electricians are doing all the CAT cable runs for each room, access points, and exterior cameras.

We’re still deciding on whether we want a full security system, but at the very least, we’d like door sensors. My plan was to have the electricians pre-run wires for hardwired sensors to every door, with all the cables leading to a network closet. Does that sound like a good idea?

Also, if we decide to have a security panel by the garage door and another one upstairs near the master bedroom, what kind of wiring should be run there? Do we need CAT cables at each panel spot, or just specific security electrical wiring?

Thanks for any advice!

2

For the security panel power, you’d need an 18/2 stranded wire from the panel to a nearby outlet.

For keypads, the usual is a 22/4 wire, but with newer tech coming out, I like to run both a 22/4 and an 18/2 to each keypad spot. Common locations are by the garage entry, front door, and master bedroom. All of these wires should run back to the panel, and I’d suggest stranded over solid wire.

If your walls are still open, it’s a good idea to run extra wires now—saves a lot of trouble later if you decide to add a keypad in a new spot.

For door and window sensors, run a 22/2 stranded wire to the panel. For motion detectors, I’d use 22/4 stranded wire, running back to the panel. Place these near open areas, entries, and main hallways.

As for sirens, I’d run an 18/2 stranded to a spot like the air return vent for the AC, so it’s out of sight. Smoke detectors would need an 18/4 solid red wire; they can be chained together, leading back to the panel. Same goes for heat detectors, though they shouldn’t be wired with the smokes.

For the sprinkler system, run an 18/2 solid fire wire to the switch that activates the bell. They usually have two relays: one for the bell and another for the security system.

Consider running extra cables like a 22/6 stranded and a CAT5e to the attic from the panel. It helps if there’s no signal in the equipment room, so you can put the cellular gear in the attic. Also, run a CAT5e from the panel to your internet setup.

Not essential, but I’d also run a CAT5e to the D-Mark.

3

@Isaiah
This is perfect, thanks so much! Exactly the kind of detail I needed.

4

Been told the same on a few of my builds—can’t bring in my own contractors. But I just waited until Sunday and ran CAT5e myself. Without the drywall, it took me two Sundays, about 4 hours each. :laughing:

Honestly, I wouldn’t bother pre-wiring for a full alarm system. The newer wireless systems, like the Qolsys 4, are so good these days. Battery life lasts for years, and it saves a lot of hassle. I’d just run CAT6 everywhere now, to a media closet, each room, the garage, and along both sides of the house for cameras and doorbell cams. That should cover any future needs. Maybe add another CAT6 line to key rooms for connecting to HDMI setups, like displaying cameras on the TVs. I like the Reolink 180s for the cameras.

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Biggest mistake I see is letting electricians handle low voltage wiring. They don’t really know how to properly run CAT5/6 cables, and they often put the homeruns in the wrong spots. I had a job where all the wiring (access points, cameras, TV hookups) was run to the outside wall where the electric meter was… not to the indoor data closet where everything should’ve been. That meant none of it could be used as intended.

Without seeing the work myself, I’d be cautious. Electricians might do a fine job for power, but low voltage is a different game. If possible, see if you can check on their work or get photos before they finish.

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@Vanessa
That’s definitely a concern. I’ve seen their work on other homes, and they seemed to run everything to a central switch in the basement, so I’m hopeful. But yeah, I don’t really have other options here.

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@Jamie
I get it, and it’s a risk. I’ve had clients send me videos while the wiring’s being done, just so I can confirm things look right. It really depends on who’s doing the work.

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Check out my prewire guide.

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The big question is if you plan to have a monitored system that can call 911 in case of a break-in.

But to answer your question, wires aren’t strictly necessary these days; lots of tech doesn’t need them anymore. I work with ADT, and most of our cameras use cellular signals. But if you do want hardwiring, you’re right that the security panel would need power—usually an 18/2 wire from the panel to an outlet.

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@Miguel
Yes, it will be monitored. I don’t quite get the idea of ‘wires being a thing of the past’… doesn’t that mean I’d have to keep changing batteries?

Also, for the security panel, what exactly should I run there? It still needs power, right?